Itinerary for Brittany and Normandy- 10 nights late Sept to early October?

We are planning a big trip this fall as new empty nesters, starting in eastern Europe for two weeks (mostly on a tour) and want to spend 10 days after that traveling by car through Brittany and Normandy and then spend the last two nights in Paris. We'll land in Paris but, already adjusted to the time, plan to head straight out from there.

We've been to France quite a bit, speak decent French but have never visited Brittany and only been to Normandy very briefly so we could really use help with this part of our trip. Can anyone who knows this part of France recommend how you might plan the ten day Brittany/Normandy itinerary? Thanks!

Loved loved loved Brittany! Spend at least a few nights in Dinan - we rented a perfect place there for a week (will send you info if you're interested) and travelled out on day trips. I'll look around for my journal, hoping we kept one for that trip, and if/when I find it, will come back to suggest some of our favorite spots. Ploumanac'h was my #1 on the Pink Granite coast - absolutely stunning. We also made a day trip to the Normandy beaches, but didn't have enough time there so one overnight at least (in Bayeux) would be better if you haven't already visited. We drove from Paris.

If you can get one of those chip and pin credit cards before your trip, Brittany was the one place we (almost) got into trouble without one. In fact, we had to abort one of our planned day itineraries because of that. Many gas stations, which are few and far between, and often un-peopled, only accept those. Cash doesn't help.

Lucky you!

Laurie said:

Many gas stations, which are few and far between, and often un-peopled, only accept those. Cash doesn't help.

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Yes. If you are travelling by car you MUST have a chip & pin credit card to buy gas. Cash is not accepted by the machines, and magnetic stripe cards do not work. We were touring the Loire Valley chateaux and we were almost completely out of gas. After 30 minutes sitting with an empty tank in an un-manned gas station, we were finally aided by a kind Frenchman who also stopped for gas. We gave him 50 euros cash and he swiped his pin & chip card and got us 50 euros of gas.

Now both hubby & I each have a chip & pin from Chase Marriott VISA cards. My college age daughter was able to get a chip & pin when she signed up for a Bank America credit card earlier this year. You could probably ask your bank for a chip & pin card. I would not recommend driving in France without one.

-- Rene

Rene McDaniel said:

After 30 minutes sitting with an empty tank in an un-manned gas station, we were finally aided by a kind Frenchman who also stopped for gas. We gave him 50 euros cash and he swiped his pin & chip card and got us 50 euros of gas.

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We did the same thing, on a different day than the one I mentioned above.

It was a mystery to me when and where French drivers fill up. There were so few gas stations, especially in rural areas, and so few people at the few there were buying gas, often they were deserted. So different from here, a gas station on every corner... On the other hand, if you need a bakery, you will be happy!

Thank you very much for your replies Laurie and Rene. I'll see if we can get a pin and chip card. I tried about a year ago and was not able to but hopefully that has changed.

Laurie, I would be very interested in any information you might have about Dinan and the rest of your trip. We are very excited about this!

Rene, thanks for the cc info - I wasn't able to get one ether a few years ago either, but will look into both those companies before our next jaunt.

glenn1000, here is the gorgeous historic 2-BR apartment we rented in Dinan:
http://www.letriskel.co.uk/holiday-homes-dinan/millefleurs

The owners live(d) next door and were very attentive, with a welcome basket of wine and other goodies awaiting us. They are Brits so we didn't have to struggle with language. It was decorated with tapestries and antiques. The location was perfect for travelers with a car, because there was parking on the street, and easy ingress/egress by road from Dinan, but right across the river with a stone bridge into the medieval center, not to mention a few steps from a fabulous bakery (or course). Looks like 350 Euros/wk for your dates, I don't know what/whether they do shorter rentals. We brought linens (tho they supply at a nominal fee) and cleaned up at departure (minimal requirements to avoid the fee) so no extra charges. All in it was less expensive than a timeshare, and so lovely I hated to leave.

Edited to add: these same folks I believe - Jeremy and Julia Stark - do other rentals in various parts of northern Brittany, so may be able to help you with some other rentals for partial weeks if you need - maybe. I think they own several themselves.
http://www.letriskel.co.uk/

I'll come back w/more info on other places we visited in Brittany later.

I was able to get a pin and signature card issued from American Express. Not possible for my Visa card at this point. Am Ex told me that as long as it had the chip it should work. Hope that's true!

Great information Laurie! Look forward to hearing your other recommendations. Really appreciate your help.

I would definitely do Mont Saint-Michel; it's magical, especially if you can stay at the one little hotel on the mount.
We also were very impressed with the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman Conquest in 1066; it was made around 1070. It is 70 feet long, & has it's own building.
And of course Monet's house in Giverny is amazing.
Have a great trip!
Lynne

I second the trip to Monet's home in Giverny. It was one of the highlights of our trip since we are big Monet fans. The house & garden was lovely, and just like in the pictures, but walking over to the lily pond was the most exceptional part. There are lots of areas to sit and just take it all in. It was probably the most beautiful place I have ever been. We stayed out there and enjoyed it for quite awhile. Glorious!

I went to Mont Saint-Michel several years ago with a friend, and it was okay, but it ate up a lot of time just getting there, plus spending the night in St. Malo. We had an excellent guide at the Abbey at the top, but on the mount itself there is not much to do. We had some of the famous crepes, enjoyed the view, and then headed back down the mount. My friend was Catholic, so it had some special meaning & history that made it more special for them than it was for me.

Chip Credit Card:
If you just do a Google search and type in "Marriott Rewards Visa" you will pull up the application and you can see the microchip on the card in the ad. We opted for the premier card to get the 50,000 Marriott Rewards points, but Marriott rewards points don't go nearly as far as they used to. They waive the membership fee for the first year, so you could have it for your Europe trip. It also has "no foreign transaction fees" which is also a handy benefit. Then, when you return home from your trip, you can pay it off and cancel it before renewal time in one year, or you'll be billed $85.

-- Rene

lynne1956 said:

I would definitely do Mont Saint-Michel; it's magical, especially if you can stay at the one little hotel on the mount.
We also were very impressed with the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman Conquest in 1066; it was made around 1070. It is 70 feet long, & has it's own building.
And of course Monet's house in Giverny is amazing.
Have a great trip!
Lynne

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Agreed - would definitely include Mt St Michel (with sleepover) and Giverny.

I adore Bayeux and recommend it for its location and history.

Also, several of the Normandy Beach tour companies leave from Bayeux - next to the Churchill/Lara Hotels (stay there if you can).

Suggestion: Overlord Tours or the Battle Bus. I will not recommend Victory Tours (with Roel) despite what TripAdvisor says.

Take the full day tour if you can. Amazing.

Also, market days in Bayeux are Saturday and Wednesday. It's wonderful.

lynne1956 said:

I would definitely do Mont Saint-Michel; it's magical, especially if you can stay at the one little hotel on the mount.
We also were very impressed with the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman Conquest in 1066; it was made around 1070. It is 70 feet long, & has it's own building.
And of course Monet's house in Giverny is amazing.
Have a great trip!
Lynne

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Staying in a hotel on mt st michel is absolutely magical when the crowds leave.

Have an omelette at mere poulard

Visit a german ww2 cemetery - a very diferent experience

Careful with the cidre - its hard cider

glenn1000, I haven't found my journal from this trip - assuming I kept one! - but found a folder of keepsakes and brochures, postcards etc, so can share some of the highlights, if not actual itinerary:

Mont St Michel, of course.

We spent a couple of delightful days in Dinan, including a walk along the river to the medieval town of Lehon.

By the way - Dinan is apparently "mentioned in the Bayeux Tapestry as the place where William and Harold defeated Duke Conan of Brittany." (I just read this in my travel print-outs!)

From Dinan we drove many of the coastal roads to the north - the Emerald Coast - and got out and walked around the scenic rocky peninsulas. Went to a reserve / bird museum on a little island you can drive to. We hoped to see puffins as we had on an island in Wales, but didn't, except on their postcards.

Ploumanac'h as I said above - walk the paths thru a clifftop rocky area, old lighthouse etc. One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Pink Granite Coast. This is where signs started being displayed in 2 languages, French and the Celtic-related Breton language.

Various prehistory sites: Carnac is a huge one, hundreds of 6000 year old megaliths and a museum, near Vannes, and one of our longest daytrips from Dinan. We saw just a few glimpses of Gulf of Morbihan before it was time to drive back to Dinan. Locmariaquer is another prehistory site we went to near Carnac - and others we just encountered while driving thru the countryside and seeing signs with the icons for dolmens and menhirs - ancient stones. We loved discovering these, sometimes traipsing thru the woods to find them.

Gorgeous ruined castle at Fougeres (I don't care for castle tours with lots of tourists - we like to be the only tourists we see! and so we were at Fougeres). We spent our last hour there before flying out of Rennes when leaving Brittany and France, perfect last stop.

Brittany was way too big to see it all by daytrips from Dinan, you'll see more if you hit the road - but since timesharing, we prefer the daytrip model.

If I recall other places I'll let you know, since I'm sure I'm leaving things out.

A book set in medieval Brittany that I really enjoyed and recommend: Holy Fools by Joanne Harris.

OMG, loved loved loved Normandy! We went there several years back. We actually flew out transatlantic flight into Paris and then picked up a rental car and drove to Bayeux from there. No problem.

I looked all over and researched and finally picked Bayeux to stay in, and we were so glad we did. Adorable little town, cute and fun to walk around. Great base for venturing out from there. If you're near the cathedral in town (the big historic one) then you're in a very good location with all things walkable.

Definitely go to the Bayeux Tapestry. You may think "What?!" and "A tapestry?!" but trust me. Great. Takes maybe 90 minutes at the most. Be sure to watch the movie there before viewing the tapestry. You'll be surprised how much you learn. My boys were then in 4th and 1st grade and you'd think they would have ZERO interest in viewing a tapestry.....but they loved it. Totally interesting.

ALSO....110% for sure do a D-Day tour (one day should be fine if you have a normal interest). Whether you think you know everything, or you know nothing, I still guarantee you will find it fascinating and it will be a highlight of your trip. I think a lot of people make the mistake of thinking they know a lot about it and don't need to do a tour. Trust me, you are much more efficient, see more, and realize all the stories you would have missed on your own once you do a tour. We had to get a private guide (because my kids were then too young for the tours) but this is a highly regarded tour http://www.ddaybattletours.com/welcome.html
as well as
http://www.ddayhistorian.com/

My Mother-In-Law was with us and had NO interest but gamely went along and said it was probably the most interesting day she'd ever had in her life. My boys (one a big WWII fan and one not) both found it equally excellent.

Mont St. Michel, for sure. So picturesque! When you walk in, get away from the crowds right away by turning right and going immediately up the steps onto the ramparts. 99.999% of all the people that go in all jam and joggle up the one road going up, having a miserable time. Meanwhile you'll be high above them on the ramparts, with a beautiful view, having fun, enjoying yourself. Then you can always walk DOWN the street, laughing at the misery on peoples' faces because you didn't have to do it.

Couple other suggestions, for Normandy:

Peace Museum in Caen - allow several hours if possible.

Bayeux Tapestry - not sure how crowded this is normally, but we arrived about an hour or 45 min b4 closing, and were the only people there. It was enough time (for us) to see it, and loved the quiet and personal viewing.

Be aware that not all "Chip" cards are the same. Some are "chip and sign" and some are "chip and pin" we had no problem with our chip and sign Marriott visa in Italy last month but never used an unattended machine where we were told you must have a PIN not just a "chip" card.

Thanks so much everyone! Let me update you on our plan and see if there is any additional advice:

We will fly into Paris (from Croatia- hiking trip there) and drive directly to Dinan. We are booking the Millefleurs unit Laurie- really appreciate that idea! We will be in Dinan for five nights and then have five nights in Normandy before our last two nights in Paris.

We have been to Giverny a couple of times and love it but will visit other places on this trip. I was at Mont Saint-Michel 30 years ago and remember it as being packed full of tourists. Seems like others have had a better experience and we'll be there in the off season so will plan a visit.

Bayeux sounds great but it's only two hours from Dinan. Should we consider another base further away or perhaps split up our five days, maybe 2 nights in Bayeux? Definitely want to do a D-day beach tour. Maybe Rouen too? I don't know this area very well so your ideas would be appreciated.

And if you know any specific places to stay in Normandy that would be awesome. Thanks again!

Glad you got Millefleurs, hope you like it as much as we did!

I think 2 overnites in Bayeux would be advised, because even tho it's only 2 hours from Dinan, you can't see it all in a day, the Peace Museum itself can take hours, and you might as well be right there.

There was another very picturesque port town in Normandy I wished we could have gotten to, Honfleur, there was a timeshare there that DAE used to feature from time to time. I'd also wished we'd had time to visit Rouen because of Joan of Arc stuff. So I'd probably pick either of those places for the other 3 nites.

Update- we are all set with our accommodations:

Dinan: 5 nights
Bayeux: 2 nights with Overlord full day D-day tour booked on day 2
Honfleur: 3 nights
Paris: 2 nights

Will definitely check out many of the great suggestions such as the Peace Museum and the Bayeux Tapestry. And certainly a trip to Mont Saint Michel.

Happy to hear any advice for the time we are spending in Honfleur area.