We just returned from two glorious weeks at the Occidental Allegro on Cozumel. We saw several videos and photos of the damage from the three days (October 18-21, 2005) that Hurricane Wilma spent stalled over the island.
The devastation depicted was hard to look at. No loss of life was suffered on the island, however, every inch of the island was under water. Electrical power and phone service were restored to all downtown neighborhoods within one month. Other areas, however, went without for 8 weeks.
So every able-bodied citizen on the island, young and old alike, worked shoulder-to-shoulder to restore Cozumel. Within one week, the downtown area of San Miguel was completely cleaned up. Within 2 months, downtown was rebuilt and functional.
The Allegro is fully operational and rooms have been rebuilt or restored. The vegetation is understandably sparse. Gone is the shady, palm-lined walk from the beach to the dining room. Instead, several lovely, flowering bushes have been planted that not only attract legions of beautiful butterflies at all times, but draw the eye downward to minimize the attention to the battered palms.
The jungle on either side of the resort was sadly defoliated. As a result, we had an uninvited guest in our bathroom one evening - a 4" black scorpion. DH dispatched him with great haste. Also, we saw a big, hairy tarantula on the side of our building. Since their habitat was disturbed, these creatures are more frequent on the property now.
But as promised, to the reefs. They suffered mightily, no way around that. The ones toward Chankanaab, such as Tormentos, Yucab, and Punta Tunich, are all closed because of severe damage. We dived 22 tanks while there, with repeats among Colombia deep, Santa Rosa Wall, Palancar Horseshoe, Palancar Ladrillos, Palancar Jardines. Palancar Caves is also open, but we elected not to go there (not big fans of sandy swim-throughs.) Shallow dives varied between Paso del Cedral, Delilah, La Francesa, and Santa Rosa Shallows.
Punta Sur is OK, but we heard that the opening at Devil's Throat was eroded to give it a bigger diameter. Maracaibo is fine, for those looking for the ultimate macho diving experience. We did it once, and that was enough. None of the big pelagics we were hoping for, but we did spot a gi-normous white marlin. The toughest thing about it was getting back up onto the boat in the massive swells. You know - that kind of climb that feels like you're riding a mechanical bull and leaves you with ugly purple/black hematomas all over your shins from where you bang the ladder when the boat comes down off the wave. Heard from those who did it this time that little has changed.
The reefs are currently wearing a coating of sand. At first, I was saddened to see this, but as the time wore on, and as I looked more and more, I saw healthy coral polyps beneath the sand that I'd wave away. Best of all, the marine life is as lush as ever. In fact, turtles, which were once considered unusual on Cozumel, were almost as abundant as in Hawaii. An unexpected bonus of the presence of these guys is that the usual May scourge of sea itch was barely experienced. Seems that the thimble jellies and their larvae are a delicacy to sea turtles!
We saw a couple of eagle rays, many nurse sharks, 2 big, adult spotted drums (although only one, single juvenile the whole 2 weeks!) many of the usual huge groupers, lobsters, monster crabs, and massive morays. Of course, the usual suspects like sergeant majors, gobis, jacks, and tangs are still there in their usual profusion.
We were told that it's going to take a few years for the currents to wash the corals clean. For those going in the near future, be advised that it looks like there was a huge blizzard down there, or like someone held a huge flour sifter over the reefs. They're covered.
But lest you should despair, know that the reefs' ecosystem is flourishing and still offers some of the best diving in the world.
The devastation depicted was hard to look at. No loss of life was suffered on the island, however, every inch of the island was under water. Electrical power and phone service were restored to all downtown neighborhoods within one month. Other areas, however, went without for 8 weeks.
So every able-bodied citizen on the island, young and old alike, worked shoulder-to-shoulder to restore Cozumel. Within one week, the downtown area of San Miguel was completely cleaned up. Within 2 months, downtown was rebuilt and functional.
The Allegro is fully operational and rooms have been rebuilt or restored. The vegetation is understandably sparse. Gone is the shady, palm-lined walk from the beach to the dining room. Instead, several lovely, flowering bushes have been planted that not only attract legions of beautiful butterflies at all times, but draw the eye downward to minimize the attention to the battered palms.
The jungle on either side of the resort was sadly defoliated. As a result, we had an uninvited guest in our bathroom one evening - a 4" black scorpion. DH dispatched him with great haste. Also, we saw a big, hairy tarantula on the side of our building. Since their habitat was disturbed, these creatures are more frequent on the property now.
But as promised, to the reefs. They suffered mightily, no way around that. The ones toward Chankanaab, such as Tormentos, Yucab, and Punta Tunich, are all closed because of severe damage. We dived 22 tanks while there, with repeats among Colombia deep, Santa Rosa Wall, Palancar Horseshoe, Palancar Ladrillos, Palancar Jardines. Palancar Caves is also open, but we elected not to go there (not big fans of sandy swim-throughs.) Shallow dives varied between Paso del Cedral, Delilah, La Francesa, and Santa Rosa Shallows.
Punta Sur is OK, but we heard that the opening at Devil's Throat was eroded to give it a bigger diameter. Maracaibo is fine, for those looking for the ultimate macho diving experience. We did it once, and that was enough. None of the big pelagics we were hoping for, but we did spot a gi-normous white marlin. The toughest thing about it was getting back up onto the boat in the massive swells. You know - that kind of climb that feels like you're riding a mechanical bull and leaves you with ugly purple/black hematomas all over your shins from where you bang the ladder when the boat comes down off the wave. Heard from those who did it this time that little has changed.
The reefs are currently wearing a coating of sand. At first, I was saddened to see this, but as the time wore on, and as I looked more and more, I saw healthy coral polyps beneath the sand that I'd wave away. Best of all, the marine life is as lush as ever. In fact, turtles, which were once considered unusual on Cozumel, were almost as abundant as in Hawaii. An unexpected bonus of the presence of these guys is that the usual May scourge of sea itch was barely experienced. Seems that the thimble jellies and their larvae are a delicacy to sea turtles!
We saw a couple of eagle rays, many nurse sharks, 2 big, adult spotted drums (although only one, single juvenile the whole 2 weeks!) many of the usual huge groupers, lobsters, monster crabs, and massive morays. Of course, the usual suspects like sergeant majors, gobis, jacks, and tangs are still there in their usual profusion.
We were told that it's going to take a few years for the currents to wash the corals clean. For those going in the near future, be advised that it looks like there was a huge blizzard down there, or like someone held a huge flour sifter over the reefs. They're covered.
But lest you should despair, know that the reefs' ecosystem is flourishing and still offers some of the best diving in the world.
